Lifestyle, When Life imitates Style: Vintage legend and friend of The Bearded Man, Zip Stevenson from HTC sent him an article entitled “An Uneasy Heritage” by Harry Sheff in MR magazine. It was about the argument of “Heritage” and what it means to the people that do it for a living versus the ones that are inspired by it for style or creative expression. Harry Sheff writes “It seems to me that we’re all craving a sense of order and purpose and tradition. In America, we tend to dismiss our traditions as soon as they’re inconvenient, only to scramble to reclaim them when it’s too late”. A few years ago an interesting thing happened. We posted a shot of The Bearded Man wearing a naval jacket, a reader responded furiously about how he was insulted at the idea of a “civilian” who did not earn the jacket, sporting the jacket.
A few weeks ago something sparked us to start a conversation around a jacket that is being sold in our vintage section. The Bearded Man called a few of his college buddies, several Alphas, a Delta & an Alpha Kappa Alpha to ask them their take on the topic. Many replied that the jacket should only be sold to someone who has earned the right to wear those Greek letters. However, some also understood and expressed that they hoped the jacket would fall in the hands of someone who was not going to impersonate an ALpha but research the organization. Our answer, it is a piece of history and our responsibility is to present it, pass it on and maintain its value. Maybe the jacket should have been posted with all its historical significance, some background of how we obtained it and why The Bearded Man had it in his collection. Maybe the same should apply for designers who use camouflage, kinte prints, ethnic prints or anything with cultural or historical significance in their designs.
This discussion will continue for the next 100 years or 1000 years to say the least. Take a minute and look in your closet. I am sure you own something based directly or indirectly on someone’s lifestyle, which would give them the right to question why you are wearing it and if you earned it. Need some examples? Let’s start with the belt or sneakers from your favorite luxury brand that was not designed with your income bracket in mind. The motorcycle jacket designed to save a biker’s skin from road rash in case of an accident. Or the official team Jersey or the construction boots worn in the 90′s by more civilians than construction workers.
With that said, we won’t carry on for too long, the soap box is about to collapse, we’ll leave the floor for you to express your take on the topic. What’s the topic? Should you be questioned for wearing an article of clothing that is a representation of someone’s culture, Fraternity, Club or heritage as an expression of style or creativity. It’s all very touchy stuff, but we think it’s worth some exploring. Please note, if you choose to comment on the subject, you have to respect the grounds. Be thoughtful, be considerate and please refrain from any angry comments-Try, please try!.
Alpha Phi Alpha Basketball Team,1926 Photographed By James Van Der Zee || Alpha Phi Alpha Fraternity,1921
The vintage jacket as presented on The Brooklyn Circus online shop
Military helmet patterns from “Disruptive Material Pattern” by Hardy Bleachman || Army Navy Stores Catalog 1900
Above: Camouflage buckle back pants by Striver’s Row || vintage Motorcycle Jacket
Below: This season Roberto Cavalli, Burberry Prorsum, John Galliano and Lanvin have all integrated Ethnic elements into their collections.
Our thoughts: When you disagree with something, use it as an opportunity to educate the next person about your perspective. Offer them a piece of literature not an ear full. If it seams like we are all over the place with this post, you are correct. Why? because the topic can go in so many different directions, but we hope it serves as a spring board not to restrict our creativity but to explore other cultures or subcultures through our creative thoughts. Of course with the utmost respect for customs, traditions and the people who live these cultures and subcultures.
Dang…..am I the first one?………In a world of individuals there are no absolutes.
My dad was an Alpha (NYU grad after the Korean War) and I did not know until I was out of college. He did not really think Greek in the midst of the civil rights era. Not that that tradition was not important, it just was not that significant to him at that time. On the other hand my father-in-law is Omega and just got his 60 year pin. We are dynamic beings in a dynamic world so we must realize that the only thing constant is change…….and respect.
Larry: Words from an educated thoughtful man with lots of style might we add. Thanks Larry!
Now that I have your attention…….this is probably the best time to invite the “Bearded Man” and /or crew
to share some of this intellectual discourse with a potential consumer base at Brooklyn College Fall semester if he has some time. I have you on deck dude…….no pressure……..just a thought.
All traditionally American garments stem from utilitarian needs… Whether work wear, military clothing, sports specific clothing, or what have you… besides comfort, one of the only things that America has contributed to the garment industry is taking the utilitarian and making it fashionable. Being fashionable does not require that you are aware of why the cut is made the way it’s made, or the history behind a garment. Most businessmen wear ties, and have no clue regarding their significance and tie-back (no pun intended) to the Greek Senate or even ivy-league schools in the US. That’s clothing nerd history or better yet, trivia. Every street wear brand makes M-65 jackets, but does every street wear designer know why there are so many pockets? In the military, each one of those pockets has significance and holds very specific items based on strict regulations. The same can be said for cargo pants, and Old Navy sells those…
All of this does have a point…hahaha… To say, “This jacket is for welding, and I’m a welder, so I don’t appreciate you wearing it for fashion-purposes.” is somewhat ridiculous and close-minded. Certain things we stay away from in regards to inspiration – clerical garments, confederate army uniforms, etc. on account of social norms mores. Everything else is fair game. Getting offended about someone wearing a garment is very personal thing, and only matters in that very specific context to that very specific person, and there’s no way you can take that one person into account when deciding how to stay looking fresh that day.
I’m a firm believer in the fact that if any brand wants to appropriate a look or lifestyle that it’s perfectly fine when done in genuine good taste, complete transparency, and honesty. I think we can all recount times we’ve seen a brand try to become part of a culture without necessarily understanding or really fully embracing the heritage and history of a said culture. I’ve not once felt that the Brooklyn Circus as a brand has put out anything that wasn’t vigorously researched and something close and special that came from one of the groups own background.
Now, the topic of whether or not one can earn the right to wear symbols that are only attained through years of services or induction into a certain group or club is another matter. I personally wear jackets with military epaulettes adorned with various stars for rank. I’ve never served in the military and I have the utmost respect for those who do. I have not earned the right to be called major or general but I do not take the fact that I put that jacket on lightly and understand what it represents. As long as your willing to respect what you put on your back and what it stands for I think you should be allowed to wear it.
Hey Larry not a problem at all, keep us posted. Email a formal invite and agenda to questionthebeard@thebkcircus.com
A lot of great points! As a society we can appreciate garments from all eras/ associations. Kats who wear sports jerseys aren’t claiming they are Jordan but they either want to rep their favorite team, player, sport, fashion etc. Take into effect the teams and players do receive a payment off of each jersey sold. Maybe implementing some kind of foundation might keep them quiet. If there are any symbols pertaining to a specific group I’m sure they would take offense but if not it’s a fashion statement. Design on BKc my favorite line for many reasons. I’m just appreciating the minds that come up with these updated vintage styles. Paying homage to our roots is how I see it and with the flyest interpretation of a modern day vintage design haus! Big ups…..!
wILL
First and foremost, let me preface this by saying that my words and comments are my own; I do not assume literary license, representing any organization, whatsoever! With that said, if you ask anyone that was properly initiated into one of the Historically Black Greek Letter Organizations, you would find that the true essence of their relationship with the organization reaches far beyond the right to wear letters or greek paraphernalia. The true spirit lies within their commitment in the upliftment of their families, communities, and each other. Now, Greek Para can be sold by anyone to anyone. It is typically sold at our organization’s conventions, HBCU (Historically Black Colleges and Universities) events, local stores near college campuses, online, etc. These outlets and access points usually target a specific customer; and that is simply someone who understands what they are purchasing. I don’t expect to find para being sold at a department store or retail boutique. Personally, it would be disturbing to know that part of our heritage may be trivialized by the avant garde culture of fashion. Imagine someone being able to purchase authentic BKc clothing without experiencing the realism of the 100 Year Plan, the amazing personalities of the sales people that sell the culture and lifestyle, or the user experience of thebkcircus.com…
Just my $.06 cents.
Not to deride the work, lifestyle and choices of each persons occupation, but for me the idea that a military garment is ‘earnt’, holds too much political context for me that is endowed by the viewer. I would prefer to know that military was a style not an entity, and for that reason the discussion of The Bearded Man’s jacket sits apart from that about other culturally relevant dress.
Sub cultural subversive dress purposefully assimilates these symbols and reconstituted them in a way that is appropriate for the wearer with a msg for the viewer, i.e. punks.
Yes very often these symbols are worn without understanding but it does not make the action careless or intentionally insulting. When one is able to impart knowledge it should be with the intention of sharing, I always prefer ‘did you know…’ rather then ‘didn’t you know…’
I buy from BK Circus. I enjoy how the collections are designed and vintage pieces curated. I love the clothes and style because of it’s collegiate underpinnings. I appreciate also that this topic was brought up for discussion.
As a Black Greek Letter Organization member, I know if I saw someone in my letters on the street I would greet them and there would be certain expected cultural responses. When it became apparent that the wearer was not a member of my organization, I wouldn’t be pleased. That said, what would one expect to be the response for wearing a Hell’s Angels vest with patches? I am too grown and too fly to fight over this kind of thing. But I use this cross-cultural reference as a cautionary tale.
We are taught to remove patches and or at least one letter if we donate clothes to negate its particular cultural signifiers. I assumed that this jacket was bought and sold through an estate sale or vintage outlet of some type or other. There are a million reasons that this jacket might not have been altered before it got to BK Circus. I would hope that its future wearer if not an Alpha would go through the trouble of personalizing with alternate patches in respect to members of A-Phi-A.
*my view: it’s about adopting a spirit from an era, region or group but making it your own. Be inspired and then go be original and unique
Twitter: @cultureshot
I agree… These symbols are important and specific to us… As an Alpha, I think its beautiful, as a person who appreciates style i think it is a great piece, but would think that the style can be imitated with out using the specific names and symbols of an organization.
If I had the funds I would purchase and be proud to wear around my brothers. Hopefully an Alpha purchases this.
I am glad this issue has been brought up and now has turned into a conversation. The Brooklyn Circus blog has been a great source of inspiration, education and celebration and it’s great to see topics spark different perspectives.
When it comes to fashion/style, I personally think that the majority of people that buy clothing are not concerned with it’s historical reference, however their is still a percentage of people that do care and want to be aware of what they are buying/wearing. The saying, “you must know the rules, to break the rules” hold very true in this case. Education is empowerment. Empowerment is Confidence. I believe what happened in this case is people may have reached the point of expecting to be educated by the Brooklyn Circus on what they put up for sale –especially in their vintage shop. Educate us BKc! — so we can be empowered and wear our beautiful BKc buys with confidence.
A lot of good things have been said concerning this topic. It seems to me that the attitude of the wearer is the most important subject. Respect and appreciation are vital aspects of style. I’m not saying that every article of clothing should be thoroughly researched and that the wearer ought to be able to regurgitate the history of whatever piece of clothing he/she is wearing upon request, but rather one should display forethought as to why they are wearing a particular piece. More often than not we wear pieces because we think they look cool. That thought to me is a compliment to the origins of the garment.
I LOVE that you brought this topic up! A topic that almost no one really touches upon in fashion! Probably because of the fear, by many designers, being found out that they weren’t the first ones to think of a particular “look”! GASP! I’m going to spin this convo a little though…Lately, I have been thinking about this as it pertains to my identity and my culture. Being a South Asian American Designer and working in the industry for many years, I have noticed the growing popularity of my Indian “heritage”. From stores like Freepeople to big name designers, using techniques, textiles, and influences from India and other parts of South Asia. I’m on the fence with my feelings about this. Unlike the boys at Brooklyn Circus and their fans who appreciate and pay homage to their heritage, I don’t feel like enough credit is given to south Asian influences in the market. Don’t get me wrong, I love it when I see it on people and it does delight me to see it in the market, but also the origins of certain prints and textiles have amazing stories and backgrounds that aren’t being shared in the fashion world. Wish it was and I would love to see more representation of South Asian American designers as well. Well, I could go on but maybe this will be kept for my own blog and convos. Thanks for bringing this up and for everyone sharing some great insight into their feelings, got me thinking!